Nanga Parbat Expedition : Overview

Nanga Parbat is truly an awesome spectacle.It is the nineth highest mountain in the world and the second highest in Pakistan after K2. The south face is the largest in the world extending over four kilometres above base camp. To date there have only been five ascents from the south. Nanga Parbat means "Naked Mountain" in Hindi/Urdu and is with reference to the south face's exposed rock buttresses. The north face is equally intimidating. In contrast to the south face’s steep rock and ice the snowy north face is guarded by a broad barrier of seracs that extend the width of the mountain. Climbers before the Second World War were convinced that the only way to climb the mountain was from the north via a long arc extending over Rakhiot Peak (7010m), between the two summits of Silberzacken and finally to the summit of Nanga Parbat thereby avoiding a more direct ascent of the north face. The route was dangerously prone to avalanche and exposed to bad weather. 31 people died attempting to climb the mountain leading to it acquiring the infamous name of the “Killer Mountain".

Nowadays it is not such a killer and there are other peaks that could inherit the nickname (eg Ultar or Batura I). Hermann Buhl’s summit route has only been repeated once (Slovak, 1971) to this day. His ascent marked only the third 8000m ascent after Annapurna I (1950) and Everest and was the only first summit of all the 8000ers to be done without oxygen and of course solo. Most attempts nowadays are via the Westerly Diamir face which is generally considered to be the easiest and safest with the Kinshofer Route the normal route. Nanga Parbat as of 2005, had received 263 ascents by 261 individuals (Messner and SP Member Qudrat Ali have climbed it twice) at a price of 62 deaths. Sixteen women have summited the mountain. 

Day 01:    Arrival in islamabad,Transfer to hotel.
Day 02:    Islamabad:Briefing at the Ministry of Tourism.
Day 03:    Drive to Chilas via Karakiram Highway. 
Day 04-05:   Drive to Halale by jeep and trek to B.C.
Day 06–45:   40 days for acclimatization and climbing
Day 46-47:    Trek down to Halale and drive by jeep to Chilas.
Day 48:   Drive  to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel.
Day 49:   Farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Day 50:   International Flight to home Country. 

    S.NO.      

   EQUIPMENT NAME 

 QUANTITY 

     1

 DOWN SUITS ( DANGRI )

  1 PIECCE 

     2 

 SUMMIT SHOES ( CLIMBING BOOT ) 

  1 PAIR 

     3

 TREKKING SHOES ( WALKING SHOES ) 

  1 PAIR 

     4

 SLEEPING BAGS ( - 40 ) 

 1 PIECE 

     5

 CRANPONS

 1 PAIR 

     6

 SUMMIT SNOW GOGGLES 

 1 PIECE 

     7

 SUMMIT GLOVES ( MITTEN ) 

 1 PAIR 

     8

 NORMAL GLOVES 

 2 PAIR 

     9

 GLACIER GLASSES ( SUN GLASS ) 

 1 PIECE 

     10

 ICE AXE 

 1 SET 

     11

 HARNESS 

 1 SET 

     12

 JUMAR ( INDEX ) 

 1 PIECE 

     13

 CARABINEERS 

 2 PIECE 

     14

 DOWN FILLED MATTRESS ( AIR MATTRESS ) - 38              

 1 PIECE 

     15

 SUMMIT SHOCKS ( 2  PAIRS ) 

 2 PAIR 

     16

 CLIMBING BAG ( 40 LTR ) 

 1 PIECE 

     17

 CLIMBING HELMET 

 1 PIECE 

     18

 DOWN JACKET 

 1 PIECE 

Highlights

  • COUNTRY Pakistan
  • DURATION 50 Days
  • PRICE USD 0.00
  • Max. Altitude: 8125m
  • Walking Per Day: 5 - 6 Hours Per Day
  • Nature: Lodge + Camping
  • Best Season: Summer
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