Gasherbrum - I Expedition : Overview

Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne made first attempt in 1936, but they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797 meters. However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the first ascent of Gasherbrum I. Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman were first to reach the summit.

 

The peak was also the venue of the world’s first 8,000 meter climb in pure Alpine Style. This means that the start of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain and all gears are carried on the way, if any bivouacs, they will be found on the way. No route preparation is done. Supplemental oxygen is not used. Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler achieved this unprecedented feat in August, 1975. On 8 August 1975, they began their climb. They had no rope with them, no supplemental oxygen, just personal climbing gears. On August 10th they summitted the peak and thus introduced pure Alpine style climbing to the Karokaram.

 

Gasherbrum I is one to the "least popular" of the 8000 meter peaks. It still has less than 200 ascents and is in tenth spot on the ascent-list for the 8000 meter peaks. It is also one of the peaks with least deaths, but this probably has to do with the fact that only really experienced mountaineers try a peak as difficult at Gasherbrum I.

 

The most common way to climb the peak is to attack on the western side and all routes here leads to "The Japanese Couloir", which is located on top of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then via the long south east ridge to the summit.

Day 1:    Arrival islamabad transfer to hotel
Day 2:    Free day 
Day 3:    Fly to skardu 
Day 4:    Skardu free day and briefing
Day 5:    Drive to  askole
Day 6:    Trek to jhola
Day 7:    Trek to paiyu
Day 8:    Rest day in paiyu 
Day 9:    Trek to urdukash
Day 10:  Trek to goro ii
Day 11   Goro ii - sakring
Day 12:  Sakring - gi base camp
Day 12 – 47:  Climbing period
Day 48:  Trek back to goro ii
Day 49:  Trek back to khuburtze
Day 50:  Trek back to mundung
Day 51:  Trek back to ice koli
Day 52:  Drive to skardu
Day 53:  Farewell and debriefing
Day 54:  Fly back to islamabad 
Day 55:  Leisure day in islamabad
Day 56:  International flight to home country

    S.NO.      

   EQUIPMENT NAME 

 QUANTITY 

     1

 DOWN SUITS ( DANGRI )

  1 PIECCE 

     2 

 SUMMIT SHOES ( CLIMBING BOOT ) 

  1 PAIR 

     3

 TREKKING SHOES ( WALKING SHOES ) 

  1 PAIR 

     4

 SLEEPING BAGS ( - 40 ) 

 1 PIECE 

     5

 CRANPONS

 1 PAIR 

     6

 SUMMIT SNOW GOGGLES 

 1 PIECE 

     7

 SUMMIT GLOVES ( MITTEN ) 

 1 PAIR 

     8

 NORMAL GLOVES 

 2 PAIR 

     9

 GLACIER GLASSES ( SUN GLASS ) 

 1 PIECE 

     10

 ICE AXE 

 1 SET 

     11

 HARNESS 

 1 SET 

     12

 JUMAR ( INDEX ) 

 1 PIECE 

     13

 CARABINEERS 

 2 PIECE 

     14

 DOWN FILLED MATTRESS ( AIR MATTRESS ) - 38              

 1 PIECE 

     15

 SUMMIT SHOCKS ( 2  PAIRS ) 

 2 PAIR 

     16

 CLIMBING BAG ( 40 LTR ) 

 1 PIECE 

     17

 CLIMBING HELMET 

 1 PIECE 

     18

 DOWN JACKET 

 1 PIECE 

     19

 DOWN TROUSER 

 1 PIECE 

     20

 FIGURE OF 8 ( DESCENDER ) 

 1 PIECE 

     21

 HEAD LAMP ( ICON ) 

 1 PIECE 

     22

 GORTEX JACKET 

 1 PIECE 

     23

 GORTEX TROUSER 

 1 PIECE 

     24

 WIND PROOF JACKET 

 1 PIECE 

     25

 FLECE JACKET ( 2 PCS ) 

 1 PIECE 

     26

 FLECE TROUSER 

 1 PIECE 

     27

 FLECE INNER GLOVES 

 1 PAIR 

     28

 SCREWGATE CARABINEER ( ROCK LOCK ) 

 1 PIECE 

     29

 TERMOS WATTER BOTTLE 

 1 PIECE 

     30

 NORMAL WATER BOTTLE 

 1 PIECE 

     31

 TAPE SLING 

 1 PIECE 

     32

 TREKKING PANTS 

 2 PIECE 

     33

 NECK WARMER 

 2 PIECE 

     34

 HEAD GEAR 

 1 PIECE 

     35

 SUNSCREEN CREAM  50  SPF 

 1 PIECE 

     36

 LIP GUARD 

 2 PIECE 

     37

 DESERT CAP 

 1 PIECE 

     38

 SWISS KNIFE 

 1 PIECE 

     39

 TREKKING POLES 

 1 PAIR 

     40

 DUFFLE BAGS 

 2 PIECE

Highlights

  • COUNTRY Pakistan
  • DURATION 57 Days
  • PRICE USD 0.00
  • Max. Altitude: 8068 M
  • Walking Per Day: 5 - 6 Hours Per day
  • Nature: Lodge + Camping
  • Best Season: Summer
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